Baltimanual :: Transportation

Baltimore is the bastard child of East Coast public transportation. Don't let that colorful area transit map at Baltimore Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport fool you: All those pretty colors don't add up to much. One of the nation's best subway systems is an hour to the south, but what we have here could be mistaken for a cast-off movie set. We have a light rail, sure, but somehow it manages to miss most of the major population centers along its north-south corridor. We also have a commuter rail network and, well, it's actually pretty good: you can even take the damn thing camping. But mostly, this is a bus town; functional for locals, daunting for newbies and tourists. Sometimes getting from point A to point B can even meaning switching between two or more of these modes of transportation. The Maryland Transit Adminstration's Trip Planner will help you figure out which combo will work for you.

Top: Taxi cabs lined up in front of Penn Station on St. Paul Street; Left: the Greyhound Bus Terminal near Russell Street

Light Rail: Currently, there are three different kinds of trains in Baltimore and, with the likely addition (or return, depending how you look at it) of streetcars, that could go up to four. Both the Metro subway and the light rail run through downtown. The light rail runs north-south, with brief spurs to BWI and Penn Station. It skirts the harbor, stops at the sports stadiums, travels up the Howard Street corridor through the University of Maryland medical campus, Maryland Institute College of Art, and then shoots up along the low-density Falls Road corridor before hitting the city's northern suburbs (not including Towson, however). The biggest crowds are for baseball games—even rush hour is pretty tame. Pay for your ticket at the station platform and don't try and cheat: Fare checkers are a regular sight. Full fare: $1.60. Day pass: $3.50.

Metro Subway: Baltimore's subway is fine if you live along its limited route but, beyond that, doesn't serve much purpose. Starting in Baltimore's northwest suburbs its single line swoops into Baltimore and does an awkward, not-terribly-convenient curve through downtown and ends at the Johns Hopkins Medical Institution campus on Broadway, which isn't close to much else of note. Full fare: $1.60. Day pass: $3.50.

MARC: This is the Maryland-based commuter-rail network. Baltimore has three stops: Penn Station, Camden Yards, and West Baltimore with service on the Penn Line (service from Penn Station to Washington, D.C.) and the Camden Line (from Camden Yards to Washington). The Penn Line is relatively reliable, but the Camden Line train shares tracks with CSX freight trains, causing frequent delays. Buy your ticket at the station or expect to pay a few extra bucks and get a dirty look from the conductor. Fares from $4-$14. Service Monday-Friday only.

Buses: There are basically three kinds: local, run-of-the-mill buses; commuter buses (city to city/suburb); and express buses (like local, but with fewer stops). Local and express buses generally run from 5 a.m. to 1 a.m. and cost $1.60 for a one-way ticket and $3.50 for a day pass. You won't find anything especially different in using Baltimore's bus network than you would find in most American cities, but a few guidelines: routes aren't clearly marked, always expect your trip to take longer than scheduled, you'll find more room in the back of the bus, don't be surprised if a full bus blows by your stop, and the most congested times to travel are between 6 and 9 p.m.

Taxis: Like any other major metropolitan city, taxis in Baltimore can be pretty touch and go. There are several cab companies and many of them operate vehicles that look like they should be pulled by horses. If you're worried, grab a taxi at Penn Station or a downtown hotel, where staff theoretically keep problem cabs away. Some cabs do take credit cards, but never expect it. Bring cash.

Hacks: You'll see people, particularly in neighborhoods where taxis rarely venture, with their arm up pointing down with their fingers. They're trying to hail what's known as a "hack," an illegal, informal form of transportation that's like a cross between hitchhiking and taking a cab. Probably best to stay clear.

Driving: Baltimore's laid out on a grid system, with Charles Street dividing east streets from west streets and Baltimore Street dividing north and south. Getting your directions mixed up is bad. (As in, North Broadway is an entirely different planet than South Broadway.) Major arteries in and out of the city are I-83 (which terminates just east of downtown), Route 40 (technically a highway), and I-395 (connects from downtown Baltimore's southern portion to I-95). Without a dedicated highway leaving the city to the west and east, you're basically driving through neighborhoods, meaning traffic that way between 3 and 7 p.m. will be hell. Baltimore has an endemic problem with red-light running, so let your green ripen for a couple of seconds if you can't see. And be advised that crosswalks/lights in Baltimore are considered "optional" by pedestrians.

Parking: This is a mess. Some neighborhoods have permits to park, some have free two-hour parking, some have "Smart" meters, some might still have the old coin meters. Lots and garages are scattered throughout the city. Parking enforcement is merciless as well. Godspeed.

Bicycling: With the implementation of an enthusiastic bicycling coordinator at City Hall, this has gotten better over the past few years—more bikes lanes, more "sharrows," more signage, new bike racks, bike racks on buses, trail expansions. That said, drivers in Baltimore are assholes. You will get yelled at even in the best neighborhoods, you will get shit thrown at you, little kids will call you "faggot." As for the dicier neighborhoods, go with your gut: That shortcut isn't worth a busted face and a stolen bike. Also, quick-release wheels will get stolen. Quick.

Air: BWI is located about 15 minutes south of Baltimore. Cabs to and from the airport are expensive despite the short distance, so consider taking the light rail (45 minutes) or the MARC (20 minutes).

Rail: Amtrak's Northeast Corridor serves BWI and Penn Station with connections in Philadelphia, Washington, and New York for all points.

Bus: Greyhound serves Baltimore at two locations, the Baltimore Travel Plaza off the I-695 beltway (a good hike) and a couple miles south of downtown at a relatively isolated location off Russell Street. A cheaper and frequently more reliable alternative for getting to New York and Philadelphia are the "Chinatown" buses. There are several companies with service to the Baltimore Travel Plaza (multiple companies, Philly and New York), Penn Station (Megabus, New York only), and Station North (MVP, New York only). Bought far enough in advance, tickets can be next to free on the Megabus.